Apparatus for feeding and cutting strip material



S. E. MILLER May 7, 1968 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Feb. 21, 1966 A 2 r y N E W mm M I I m 33 \QS w M I II 5 APPARATUS FOR FEEDING AND CUTTING STRIP MATERIAL Filed Feb. 21, 1966 S. E. MILLER May 7, 1968 2 Sheets-Sheet INVENTOR Samuel E. Miller 3% ABTRACT on THE DISCLOSURE The invention relates to apparatus for sewing predetermined lengths of a materialin strip form to a second strip of material at spaced intervals along the latter. The successive lengths of the first-mentioned material are fed to the sewing station intermittently and are cut off to the I predetermined length cyclically by automatic or semiautomatic means. i

This invention relates to apparatus for feeding a first Y strip of material to a sewing machine, joining to said strip a second strip of material also being fed to the machine, cutting off said second strip to a predetermined length and resuming the operation cyclically, wherein the cycle is automatically or semi-automatically controlled. I 1

Insofar as the present disclosure refers to waist bands to be incorporated into articles of wearing apparel two principal methods are currently in use. One, wherein a basic type of waist band is to have a specialized component added thereto, e.g., a stiffening element, as disclosed in my US. Patent No. 3,155,986 granted Nov. 10, 1964. In such case, and in accordance with the present invention, a continuous length of the basic waist band, which may be of any known form, is fed from a source of supply to the sewing machine and, while thus fed, a predetermined length of the stiffening element is sewed at spaced intervals to the basic waist band. Thereafter the combined waist band and element is cut off at some point in the interval by the garment fabricator and sewed to the garment. Two, the method wherein the garment fabricator will secure the basic waist band to the pieces of the garment, e.g., the two halves of a pair of trousers and, while feeding such pieces and the waist band to the needles of a sewing machine concurrently, add a specified length of the stiffening element. In either of the two cases mentioned it is desirable to feed the stiffening element component from a continuous length carried on a spool, to stitch a predetermined length thereof to the basic waist band material and to cut off such length following incorporation thereof by sewing, said feeding and cutting being done cyclically, with initiation and termination of feeding of the stiffening material being under the control of the operator, although full automatic operation is within contemplation.

Insofar as concerns the present application, the construction of the waist band constituting one of the pieces being fed to the needles is immaterial and similarly with respect to the pieces of the garment which may, optionally, be fed to the needles along with the waist band. These factors are well-known and are common practice. Likewise the stiffening element or other component to be incorporated in the waist band may be of any form and, insofar as concerns the instant disclosure, is a strip of material of which some specified length is to be sewn to the waist band. It will be understood that this length may vary depending upon the fabricators requirement. For example, in the case of the stiffening element disclosed in my said patent which is designed to preclude 3,381,639 Patented May 7, 1968 roll-over of the edge portion of, say, a pair of mens pants the element may be disposed over only the front portion of the garment, and cut in alignment with the fly. In other cases the element may be continuous from one side of the fly, around the waist, to the other side.

In accordance with the invention the added component, e.g., the stiffening element, is furnished as a continuous roll on a spool and means are provided to guide the same toward and beneath the presser foot of the sewing machine. Just ahead of the presser foot, shearing means are located which, at a desired point in the cycle, is actuated to cut the strip, and ahead of the shearing means is located feeding means capable of seizing the leading end of the strip and presenting the same to the presser foot and feed dog of the sewing machine. Conventional feed inherent in the sewing machine continues the feeding of the strip and the basic waist band material to which it is being sewn and, at a point of time dependent on the length of strip to be incorporated, the shearing means functions, whereafter the cycle is repeated. Initiation and termination of feed of the stiffening element are desirably under the control of the operator.

The automatic portions of the cycle may comprise electrical, hydraulic or pneumatic components, operatively connected in such a way as to activate the feeding and shearing means. Moreover, the entire assembly participating in the feeding and cutting functions is of a compact, unitary character enabling addition thereof to a conventional industrial type of sewing machine with only minor adaptation, and with no interference with the operator. Further, the preferred form disclosed here'- in depends upon initiation and termination of a cycle by the operator activating a foot switch, since this mode of operation has proved most efficient. However full automatic control may be employed with only minor alteration in the basic concept.

Other objects and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the ensuing description which, taken with the accompanying drawings, discloses a preferred form in which the invention may be embodied in practice.

In these drawings:

FIG. 1 is a combined fragmentary perspective and electro-mechanical schematic view of apparatus embodying the invention;

FIG. 2 is a top plan view of two halves of a pair of trousers incorporating an assembly of a waist band and stiffening element produced by the use of the invention;

FIG. 3 is a perspective detail of certain features of FIG. 1, somewhat enlarged;

FIG. 4 is a perspective view showing parts of FIG. 3, but with interfering portions eliminated;

FIG. 5 is a cross sectional detail to show the feeding finger and reverse motion pawl;

FIG. 6 is a cross section to show the relationship between the presser foot and strip-guiding means;

FIG. 7 is a front elevation to illustrate means for mounting the strip-guiding means, cut-off means and feeding means for lateral adjustment with respect to the needles; and

FIGS. 8 and 9 are diagrammatic illustrations of alternative means for feeding the stiffening element.

By way of example the invention will be described with reference to the combining, by sewing, of some conventional type of waist band material with a secondary, stiffening element of the kind disclosed in my patent referred to hereinabove. In such case the waist band per se and the element are fed from seperate spools carrying a continuous length of each, the former being fed on an upper level and the latter on a lower level. Insofar as concerns the feeding of each past the needle or needles they are advanced by the serrated feed dog below the needles,

the presser foot being coactive therewith, all as is well known.

Reverting to the drawings, there are shown (FIGS. 1 and 6) the needle 10 and the presser foot 11 of a conventional, industrial sewing machine. Although only one needle is shown for clarity it will be understood that the same may be in multiple. The feed dog (not shown) inherent in the sewing machine is positioned beneath the presser foot as is customary. FIG. 6 shows a strip of waist band material 15 which, in itself, may be composed of several layers depending upon the specifications of the garment manufacturer, the same being fed from a supply spool (not shown) to the needle. Similarly, the secondary element 17 is fed from a supply spool (not shown). To avoid increasing the space occupied in front of the machine the spool of material 17 is desirably located with its axis perpendicularly to the direction of feed (arrow A), and a right-angled turn is effected by means of a fixed guide 19. The spool of waist band material is usually mounted beneath the sewing machine.

A plate 21 is secured to the bed of the sewing machine and has its front edge 22 curled downwardly to provide smooth transition of the element 17 from the guide throat to be described, toward the presser foot and feed dog.

Adjacent the presser foot 11 is a guide 31 comprising an upper wall 31a, a lower wall 31b and side walls 310, all converging and so formed as to define an exit throat 33 opening in such relation to the upper surface of the plate 21 as to allow the element 17 to feed without retardation toward the presser foot and feed dog. The guide 31 is supported on an arm 36 secured by screws 37 to the framework 39 to be described. Desirably, the apertures 41 receiving the screws 37 are enlarged or slotted to permit adjustment of the guide 31. From the description thus far it will have become apparent that the waistband 15 and element 17 are fed jointly to sewing position and there stitched together.

After some predetermined length of the element 17 has been fed to sewing position the same is sheared by means of a movable, hardened knife 45 coactive with a suitably hardened, fixed shearing surface 46 of a member 47, the knife being backed up by a fixed member 48. The member 47 is fixed to the framework 39. Turning to FIG. 1, the knife 45 is keyed to one end of a shaft 51 rotatably supported in bearings 5252 formed as part of the framework 39. A torsion spring 54 has its ends secured to a bearing 52 and the shaft 51, respectively, the direction of coiling of the spring being such as to bias the knife 45 normally downwardly, i.e., out of the path of the moving element 17. The end of the shaft 51 remote from the blade 45 has an arm 56 keyed thereto and this latter is connected by a link 57 to the head 61 of the core 62 of a solenoid 64, the winding whereof is indicated at 65.

The knife 45 and its associated fixed surface 46 are positioned as closely as is practicable to the point at which the presser foot and feed dog are jointly effective to feed the strips 15 and 17. In order to present the cut end of the strip 17 to such point a feed dog 71 (FIG. 1) is carried on a shaft 72 for rocking movement (arrow B), this latter being journalled on bearings (not shown) in the framework 39. The teeth 76 of dog 71 are so shaped and arranged as to bear on the under side of the strip 17 with such pressure such as to feed the strip but yet sufiiciently light as not to impede feeding thereof past the teeth by the joint action of the presser foot and feed dog of the sewing machine.

The shape of the teeth of the dog 76 is such that restoration thereof toward idle position (FIG. is ineffective to produce unwanted movement of the strip in the rearward direction.

Further to preclude backward motion of the strip 17 it may be desirable to provide a detent 81 (FIGS. 1 and 5) comprising a leaf spring secured at one end to the framework 39, as by screws 82 and adapted, at its distal 4 end, to bear against the moving strip. Such end is desirably serrated, as at 84, to implement the braking action.

In the exemplificative case of a semi-automatic cycle of operation, the operator will be provided with a pedal 91 connected, through a link 92, to an arm 93 pivoted at 94 to the framework 39 or to some other fixed point, and the pedal is biased upwardly by a spring 96 between the arm and the framework.

Arm 93 is arranged to activate a switch 101, e.g. a single-pole, single throw microswitch having a pair of contacts 101a and 101b, the former being connected to one side of a source of power, e.g., volts A.C. For convenience of tracing the circuitry said one side is indicated as plus and the other side as ground.

Upon closing of switch 101 a circuit is completed from plus, through conductor 105, through the winding 106 of a ratchet relay 107 to ground at 109. The armature 110 has an extension 112 provided with a pawl 113 and said extension is also arranged, upon activation of the relay, to close a switch 121, e.g. a single-pole, single throw microswitch, having a pair of contacts 121a and 121b. It will be seen that, upon energization of the relay 107, two events occur: one, the switch 121 is closed and two, the ratchet wheel 122 is moved one tooth space, to which further reference will now be made. Ratchet wheel 122 is keyed to a shaft 128 in common with a lobed wheel 129. The number of teeth of the wheel 122 is equal to the number of lobes and depressions of the wheel 129, in this case twelve. Each stepping of the ratchet wheel 122 will thus actuate an arm 131a to one or the other of its associated contacts 131b or 1310. In the drawing, arm 131a is shown closed on contact 131e, Closing of switch 121 is therefore effective, through its contacts 121a and 12112, to complete a circuit from plus at 121a, over lead 124 through arm 131a, now closed on contact 131b, through contact 131!) conductor 125, to apply plus to one input terminal 126 of a bridge rectifier 127, the other terminal 128 being connected to ground.

Accordingly the D.C. output of the bridge at terminals 141 and 142 is applied to conductors 144 and 145 which are connected to the two ends of the winding 147a of a solenoid 147 which, in a practical embodiment, is a rotary solenoid best operated from a D.C. source. The output arm 147b of the solenoid is linked to the feed dog 71 so that, upon energization of the solenoid, the strip 17 is advanced to the presser foot 11 and needle 10 to be sewn.

A single-pole, single throw switch 150, e.g. a microswitch, is arranged to be actuated by the feed dog 71, as indicated by the broken line 151. This switch 150 will remain closed during advancing movement of the feed dog 71 but is opened upon reverse movement. It is to be noted that the swing of the distal, serrated end of the feed dog 71 is made sufiicient to carry the cut end of the strip to beneath the presser foot 11 whereupon it is immediately returned by virtue of a spring (not shown) embodied in the rotary solenoid.

Following sewing of some predetermined length of the element 17 the operator interrupts feed by activating the switch 101 a second time. Closing of this switch again energizes the relay winding 106 thus stepping the ratchet and lobed wheels 122 and 129 one more space. Having in mind that the prior activation of the relay 107 has shifted the arm 131a against the lower contact 131b, the second activation thereof causes the succeeding lobe to lift the arm against the upper contact 131c. Accordingly a circuit is completed as follows: from plus at 121a, through closed switch 121, contact 121b, conductor 124, arm 131a, contact 131e, conductor 136, winding 65 of solenoid 64 to ground. Thus the solenoid pulls in to actuate the knife 45 and cut off said predetermined length of the strip 17. Immediately following cut off the parts mechanically associated with the knife 45 are returned by means of the spring 54.

Arranged to be actuated by the return stroke of the head portion 61 of the solenoid core 62 is a single pole,

single throw switch 161, e.g. a microswitch. The arm 161a thereof is provided with a lost motion device 162 in order that inward motion of the head 61 is ineffective to actuate the switch but will allow actuation thereof upon the return stroke. Thus, following cut off, the switch arm 161a is closed against its contact 16111 to complete a circuit which may be traced as follows: from plus at 164, over conductor 165, through arm 161a and its associated contact 161b, over conductor 166, armature 168a of a relay 168, through normally closed contact 168b, via conductor 169, winding 1680 of relay 168, to ground at 171, thereby opening the circuit through armature 168a and contact 168b.

However, prior to such opening, the impulse generated at switch 161 is also effective to energize the winding 181a of a relay 181, characterized by delayed opening; the circuit being traced over branch 177, through the winding 181a to ground at 178. The relay 181 pulls in to close a circuit as follows: from plus at 164, armature 181b, back contact 1810, conductors 185 and 186 to energize the bridge rectifier 127 a second time, whereby to activate the feed solenoid 147. Inasmuch as the normally-closed armature 168a and contact 1681) have been opened and the relay 181 has inherent time delay before re-opening, say /2 second, the feed dog 71 receives a short impulse sufiicient to advance the strip 17 only a distance such as will move the cut end of the strip toward the presser foot 11 in preparation for a succeeding cycle. Such succeeding brief feeding of the strip 17, in a practical embodiment, is approximately 1" and has the advantage that some time is conserved in presenting the leading cut end as close to the needle as possible in preparation for the succeeding cycle. The delay in advancing the strip following cut-off has the advantage that the leading edge of the advancing strip cannot strike the trailing edge of the piece being sewn.

FIG. 2 illustrates use of the invention with reference to a pair of trousers. In this type of operation the manufacturer realizes a substantial saving in production cost by sewing a continuous length of the waist band material to the two out pieces of fabric 201, 202 which are eventually assembled into the finished garment in accordance with known practice. Prior to such assembly the waistband material is severed at lines approximately indicated at X. In the case where a stiffening element, such as 17, is also to be incorporated the same is fed and stitched by means of the apparatus of the present invention. Inasmuch as the stiffening element performs its function of r precluding roll-over in a region at the front of the trousers, the length thereof is indicated in the figure as extending from one front crease 201a to the other, 202a although, as stated above some manufacturers prefer to have the stiffening element extend all the way around the waist.

It will be understood that, in general, the waist band is' attached to the shell fabric, i.e., pieces 201 and 202 along a line adjacent the top edge thereof, and that the waist band is moved to its interior position by folding. Consequently FIG. 2 shows the waist band and shell fabric in unfolded condition.

It will be apparent that the functions performed by solenoids 64 and 147 may be equally performed by means of pneumatic or hydraulic cylinders. In such case the links 57 and 1471) will be connected to the piston rod of a respective cylinder. Admission and exhaust of air or hydraulic fluid will be controlled by suitable valves, e.g., solenoid-operated valves, the windings of which may be regarded as the windings 65 and 147a respectively.

Those skilled in this art will understand that the waist band material 15 is fed to the needle or needles through a separate guide, that such guides are adjustable in scope to receive different types of waist band assemblies and that these guides are mounted for lateral adjustment in order that the needle or needles may sew on selected lines longitudinally of the waist band. These variables in turn require expeditious adjustable location of the guide 31 in a lateral sense. To this end the framework 39 (FIG. 7) is desirably carried on the sewing machine in a manner allowing adjustment. One preferred mode is to provide a housing which, for present purposes is to be regarded as the framework 39. This housing is supported at the left on a knurled-head adjusting screw 211 threadedly engaged in a boss 212 on a side wall of the housing. The screw is retained against axial movement in an ear 215 of a bar 216, this latter being attached to the base plate of the sewing machine. The opposite side wall of the housing has a boss 221 slidable on a pin 222 fixed to another ear 223 on the bar 216. Thus the housing (framework) 39 may be adjusted laterally over the desired range by rotating the screw 211. To fix the adjusted position, a slotted member 228 secured to the housing engages a screw 229 threaded into the car 215. Accordingly, once the adjustment is made the screw 229 may be availed of to maintain the same against inadvertent shifting.

Moreover, the knife 45 and its associated mechanical or electro-mechanical parts, as well as the feed dog 71 and its associated parts are desirably mounted within the housing 39 wherein they are protected against fouling. Similarly, purely electrical components and their associated circuitry may also be enclosed in the housing.

FIGS. 8 and 9 illustrate two alternative arrangements for feeding the stiffening element which, in effect, substitute for the solenoid 147 and the feed dog 71. In FIG. 8 there is a continuously rotating electric motor 301 arranged to drive the input side of an electromagnetic clutch 302, the output side thereof being connected to a wheel 305 having a friction surface bearing on the stiffening element 17. Superimposed over the wheel 305 is an idler wheel 306 carried by a shaft 307 arranged to flex or pivot about some fixed point 308 and biased in the direction of the element 17 by a spring 311. Stated otherwise, the wheel 305 and 306 will pinch element 17 so that when the clutch is energized, the element 17 is advanced to the presser foot and feed dog of the sewing machine. The winding 313 of the clutch is connected in a circuit similarly to the winding 147a of the solenoid 147. Accordingly, when the operator closes the switch 101 to initiate feeding of the element 17 the clutch will be engaged and motion imparted to the element 17 for some predetermined short distance sufiicient to enable the same to be gripped and fed by the presser foot and feed dog of the sewing machine.

FIG. 9 illustrates an arrangement in which a motor 321 drives a wheel 322 having some predetermined portion of its periphery provided with serrations 323. This wheel protrudes through a slot 325 provided in the lower wall of the guide 31. In this modification the motor 321 will be connected in circuit so that operation of the pedal 91 by the operator will result in one revolution of the wheel 322 to advance the element 17 toward the presser foot and feed dog of the sewing machine. The diameter and angular extent of the serrations 323 will be such as to provide the desired degree of advance. If desired, a onerevolution clutch e.g., a friction clutch, may be interposed between the motor 321 and wheel 322 and means provided for release and arrest of the output side of the clutch pursuant to actuation of the pedal 91.

While I have shown particular embodiments of my invention, it will be understood, of course, that I do not wish to be limited thereto since many modifications may be made and I, therefore, contemplate by the appended claims to cover any such modifications as fall within the true spirit and scope of my invention.

I claim:

1. In apparatus for use with a sewing machine having stitch-forming means and means for feeding the material to be sewed past the stitch-forming means, said sewing machine being adapted to sew successive strips of first materialto a length of second material at spaced intervals along the length of the second material, each said strip and said length of second material being fed jointly to the stitch-forming means by the feeding means, the improvement which comprises: periodically-actuated means for delivering the leading end of each strip of first mate rial to the feeding means, means to out each said strip to a predetermined length prior to completion of the sewing thereof, switching means operable between two active positions in alternated sequence, means under the control of the operator for actuating said switching means between its said two positions, first power means operatively connected to said delivery means, second power means operatively connected to said cutting means, and means interconnecting said switching means, operatorcontrolled means and first and second power means whereby one operation of said operator-controlled means activates the first power means and the next operation thereof activates the second power means to effect feeding andcutting in alternated sequence.

2. The combination in accordance with claim 1 further characterized by stepping means forming part of the interconnecting means to feed a fractional portion of the strip in the direction of advance, following cut-01f and prior to re-activation of the delivery means for the succeeding cycle to present the cut end thereof to a position closely adjacent the feeding means of the sewing machine.

3. The combination in accordance with claim 2 further characterized in that the stepping means is under the control of the shearing means whereby completion of cutoff initiates operation of the stepping means.

4. In apparatus for use with a sewingmachine having stitch-forming means and means for feeding the material to be sewed past the stitch-forming means, said sewing machine being adapted to sew successive strips of first material to a length of second material at spaced intervals along the length of the second material, each said strip and said length of second material being fed jointly to the stitch-forming means by the feeding means, the improvement which comprises: periodically-actuated means for delivering the leading end of each strip of first material to the feeding means, means to cut each said strip to a predetermined length prior to completion of the sewing thereof, switching means operable between two active positions in alternated sequence, means under the control of the operator to actuate said switching means, a first solenoid operatively connected to said delivery means, a second solenoid operatively connected to said cutting means, and electrical circuit means including a source of power interconnecting said switching means and solenoids whereby successive operations of the operator-controlled means causes operation of the switching means to energize said solenoids in alternated sequence to operate the feeding solenoid and the cut-off solenoid alternately.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,255,501 2/1918 Barron 112130 1,365,282 1/1921 Scott 112130 2,070,200 2/1937 Ernst 112-130 3,200,779 8/1965 Boser et al 112-130 XR 3,223,059 12/1965 Jacobs 112-2 JORDAN FRANKLIN, PrimaryExaminer.

H. H. HUNTER, Examiner. 

